Install a UL listed strain relief into the power cord through hole and then thread the three wire power cord through the strain relief. You will notice a black white and red wire connected to the terminal block and a white ground wire connected on the green screw mount.
This involves inserting the bare end of the wire into a slot in the ground bus bar and tightening the set screw to secure the wire. Carefully fold the excess wire and arrange it along the outer edge of the panel. Connect the white neutral circuit wire by inserting the bare copper end of the wire into a slot in the panel's neutral bus bar, then tightening the set screw. Carefully fold the excess wire and tuck it along the edge of the service panel. Connect the red and black hot circuit wires to the two screw terminals on the amp, double-pole circuit breaker.
For most breakers, this involves simply inserting the bare ends of the wires into the slots on the breaker and tightening the set screws. Line up your new breaker so the clips slide over the mounting hooks adjacent to the hot bus bar.
Press the breaker down firmly until it snaps into place. Depending on the brand of your service panel, inserting the breaker can be either a pivoting action or a firm inward push to snap the breaker onto the bus bars. Reinstall the panel cover. Turn off all the branch circuit breakers in the panel. Turn on the main breaker, then switch on each of the branch circuits, one at a time. This process prevents the sudden power surge that occurs if the main breaker is turned on while all the circuit breakers are activated.
Use a voltage tester to verify that the dryer outlet is carrying power. You are now ready to install the 4-prong appliance cord on your dryer and plug it into your revamped dryer outlet. This project requires a good knowledge of—and experience working with—electrical circuits. It involves making circuit connections at the main service panel and should not be attempted unless you are fully confident in your abilities. If you are not certain, it is best to have this work done by a professional electrician.
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Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Insert the dryer cord into the hole near the terminal block. Secure the green cord wire under the ground screw on the dryer body. Tighten the ground screw firmly with the screwdriver or nut driver. There should be no wire or metal tab connecting the ground screw to the center neutral terminal on the terminal block.
If there is, the dryer is set up for a three-prong cord. You must remove this connection, following the dryer manufacturer's instructions. Connect the remaining three cord wires to the terminals on the terminal block. Start by connecting the white cord wire to the center neutral terminal on the block. Then, connect the black cord wire to the terminal at the left or right of the center terminal; the left and right terminals are the hot terminals and are interchangeable. Finally, connect the red cord wire to the remaining hot terminal.
Tighten all terminal connections firmly, using the screwdriver or nut driver. Install a new strain-relief fitting to secure the cord where it enters the dryer panel. These fittings typically have a top and bottom half. Remove the screws from the fitting and separate the two halves.
Insert the tab of each half into the dryer cord hole, so it is flat against the inside of the dryer panel. Fit the two halves over the cord and reinstall the fitting's screws. Fortunately, it is a very easy project. However, be aware that it's still legal to use 3-slot outlets—the code has no requirement that they must be replaced with 4-slot outlets.
This is why new clothes dryers are generally sold without any power cord at all, so that you can install whatever cord style matches your outlet. The key difference in the wiring configuration between 3-prong and 4-prong cords is that, with the older setup, the 3-prong cord has only two hot wires and one neutral wire—there is no separate ground wire.
Therefore, the dryer's neutral wire was tied to the ground connection on the metal case of the dryer. Such a configuration creates a chance of shock in the rare case that the ground wire opened up. The bare wire would be energized, trying to return current to the source. The old 3-prong configuration would trip the breaker in the case of a short circuit, but in the broken ground condition, the entire bare ground and metal case would be energized. This was the reason the code changed to require the 4-wire configuration.
A 4-prong cord, by contrast, has a separate ground wire, which means that the dryer's neutral and ground are not connected together, thereby minimizing the chances that the appliance's metal case will become energized during an open neutral condition. When you convert from the 3-prong to the 4-prong configuration, you must make sure that the dryer's neutral terminal is not connected to the case ground. Because you are not working on household circuit wires while installing the cord, this is a very safe project.
But it is crucial that the wire connections you make when attaching the cord to the appliance are correct and very secure. Loose connections can lead to short circuits and sparking once the appliance is plugged in for use. Never plug in a dryer cord unless it's fully connected to the dryer. Plugging in a cord sends volts of electricity to the bare wire ends of the cord.
If the ends touch together or touch you, they'll create a potentially lethal short circuit. Make sure the dryer is unplugged from the electrical source, then remove the metal plate covering the cord's wiring connections on the back of the dryer.
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